Tour de Pines 2016

This is a short notice to Delaware Valley Trike Riders and our other cycling friends about the upcoming 2016 Pinelands Preservation Alliance Tour de Pines bike rides scheduled for September 28 through October 2. Each day a different ride, between 45-53 miles each, is offered. These rides take you through several historic towns and through miles of beautiful pine forests. Shorter rides of 22-27 miles are offered Sep. 28th, and Oct. 1st and 2nd. All rides travel nearly flat and very bike friendly roads.

Downloadable GPS files and paper cue sheets are provided. Riders are responsible for their own transportation, food and lodging. All rides start at 9:00 AM.

A Chili & Beer post-tour celebration will be held at PPA’s headquarters. Free to all registered riders, or $10 for others.

Your registration fees, for a single, multiple or full week of rides, goes directly to supporting the important efforts of the Pinelands Preservation Alliance.

If you can’t make the cycle trip, the Pinelands Preservation Alliance offers several guided tours and hikes through various forest areas and each is lead by a very experienced guide.

For Tour de Pines information visit:

For other PPA programs and information visit:

I hope to see some of you in the pines!


Triker’s Choice Club Ride (24 up to 45 mile loops)

As a ride leader I wanted to start our Delaware Valley Trike Riders’ Club 2015 season by offering to lead a ride that can accommodate most everyone’s early-season riding abilities. This ride offers some challenges by making use of several trail and road surface conditions and also offers some wonderful views of the Delaware River as we trike through several historic landmarks and towns… and this is what I’ve come up with for
May 2, 2015:

One Ride with Short and Long Options: (“A” Loop, 24 miles) Prallsville Mills to Frenchtown, returning to Prallsville Mills, then (“B” Loop, up to an additional 21 miles) from Prallsville Mills to Washington Crossing, returning to Prallsville Mills. See the “Trikers’ Choice Ride” trip sheet.

Riders are invited to join us for the “A” Loop only, or the “A” and “B” Loops together.

Please Register your intent to ride via email or phone or a comment to this post (please include your phone number, it will remain protected), by 8:00 AM, Friday, May 1, 2015. This is a fair-weather event and trail conditions may be affected by heavy rain within 24 hours prior to ride. Please include your phone number with your registration – I will call you, or text you if you prefer, if Ride Is Canceled, between 6:00 and 6:30 AM on the day of the ride.

Key Points:
Arrive early – Ride Starts at 08:30 AM, Saturday, May 2, 2015. This is a 24 mile round trip or 45 mile round trip – your choice! Mostly Flat. Average speed: 9-11 mph (faster when on highway). Mixed trail surfaces: highway, paved trail, hard-pack gravel, hard-pack dirt with spotty grass. Mostly shaded and tree-lined. No one left behind and we will stop for breakdowns. There are several opportunities for breakaway sprints.

Please familiarize yourself with Preparation Guidelines and Rules for Club Rides.

We will begin our “A-Loop” rally at the Prallsville Mills/Stockton Visitors Center, following the D&R Canal Feeder Trail North (trailhead located at the same location) to Frenchtown, NJ., where we will take a short < 20 minute break for a stretch and refreshments. The return trip will be via Rte 29 South. When we return to Stockton, the “A-Loop” (24 mile) riders will drop off and the “B-Loop”** (45 mile) riders will continue on to Washington Crossing, via the D&R Trail, where we will turn around for our northbound return trip, on the Canal Trail again, to Stockton.

**Note: The “B-Loop” can be shortened by turning around at either Lambertville (by 13.8 mi.), or the Golden Nugget (by 10.8 mi.). I’ll assess everyone’s interest (and stamina) prior to the start of the “B-Loop”.

This ride boasts of More Restroom Opportunities than on any other trail!
There are Eight (8) Restroom opportunities: Washington Crossing, Golden Nugget Flea Market, Lambertville, Prallsville Mills/Stockton Visitors Center, Bull’s Island, Kingwood Park and Frenchtown. We probably won’t stop at each one but brief photo opportunities can be arranged. 🙂

• Trikes must be walked or carried for approximately 100 yards along a section of narrow boardwalk located about 0.9 miles north of Lambertville NJ (this affects only the “B-Loop”/45-mile riders… Of Course! We’ll help each other.
• Rte 29 is a busy highway with a posted speed limit of 45 miles per hour. The highway shoulders are intermittently wide and narrow. This highway sees a lot of bicycle traffic on weekends so most local drivers expect to see bikes sharing the highway.
• Please see the Trip Sheet “Trikers’ Choice Ride” for other notes and hazards.

Triking time (estimated):
“A” NB leg 1 (Stockton to Frenchtown): 1.25 hr                         : 08:30 – 09:45
Turnaround/Rest: < 20 min                                                        : 09:45 – 09:55
“A” SB leg 1 (Frenchtown to Stockton): 1.25 hr                         : 09:55 – 11:20
Quick Break/Rest: < 10 min
SB leg 2 (Stockton to Washington Crossing): 1.00 hr                 : 11:30 – 12:30
NB leg 2 (Washington Crossing to Stockton): 1.00 hr                 : 12:30 – 13:30
Total Ride Time: 2.5 hrs or 4.5 hrs.

Prallsville Mills/Stockton NJ Visitor’s Center: 40.409095, -74.984901
Frenchtown NJ: (40.526301, -75.063015)
Washington Crossing NJ (40.296722, -74.867392)

I look forward to riding with you!
Wayne K

Is Your Trike Ready for the 2015 Season?

This is the second of the 2-part “Tis the Season” articles on trike riding preparedness – Part 1, on safety equipment, Part 2, on mechanical integrity.

The Delaware Valley Trike Riders’ Club plans to offer a fairly aggressive ride calendar, in this, our first full year of existence. In order to get the most out of this season it is important we assess our machines for proper mechanical operation and safety. Waiting for a “break down” is too risky and, if Murphy has anything to say, it could happen when you are out on a trail without access to needed tools or repair parts.

In researching this topic I didn’t find much existing information focused specifically on recumbent trikes – so I hobbled together a collection from more general “check list” items and attempted to edit them so that they would be more trike-oriented. If you think I’ve left something out, or have presented incorrect information, please consider posting your feedback in a comment for this article – we will all benefit from our shared insight and experience.

I’ll admit it… I abuse my machine. I have an affinity for those unpaved, less traveled trails – and likewise for speed. The thrill I feel riding only inches above the ground while it speeds past just a few inches beneath me is likened to, what I can only imagine, the happiness our canine friends feel when given the opportunity to run full-tilt, off leash, in a wide open field. And much like those happy dogs you’ll know it is me on the trail by my panting and persistent grin. It is a testament to the manufacturer of my trike that it hasn’t fallen completely apart while in motion! But, modesty aside, it is also a testament to my constant checking for potential mechanical problems. It is a never-ending exercise in Preventive Maintenance. While researching this article I learned quite a bit more about this practice, defined below, and with it I feel more confident that I’ll be able to keep on pedaling and trust you can keep pedaling also – all while avoiding many costly repair fees. It is a lengthy list but in practice can take well less than ten minutes, and as such, can be accomplished each time you ride.

Inspect chain for wear with a simple tool or ruler. The chain is subjected to stress forces from pedaling and these forces can cause a chain to stretch (bearing wear) and result in additional wear on sprockets and cassette bearings. There are a few different tools on the market that make this inspection easy but it can also be done with a simple, old-school ruler. The mechanics from “Performance Bicycle Shops” offer the following instructions:

  • Place a 12 inch ruler along the bottom chain run, align the 0 mark with the center of a chain rivet. Note where the 12 inch mark aligns on a rivet. If the center or the rivet is at 12 inches the chain is new or nearly new. Off by less than 1/16″ and the chain is showing some wear but is still serviceable. If it misses the 12 inch mark by more than 1/16″ the chain requires replacement and the rear cogs should be closely inspected. Worn cogs on a new chain will typically cause the chain to jump or skip in the worn out cogs.

Inspect gear teeth for wear. Smaller sprockets are more prone to wear than larger sprockets. The sprocket peaks, when in excellent condition, should reveal a machined flat, or smooth top and the sprocket valley should be symmetrical and not show uneven wear. If the peaks are pointed, or the valleys uneven, new sprockets are likely needed. This condition is typically accompanied by, or the result of, chain wear.

Inspect bearings for excessive wear. Wiggle all the places where there are bearings to check for sloppy side-to-side movement. To check the wheel hubs, grab the top of the wheel, apply a little downward pressure to make good contact with the ground and rock the wheel laterally (not rotationally). Any “clunking” sounds or lateral motion jump will indicate the need for bearing replacement.

The method to check the crank set is similar. Grab the crank and push and pull it in a lateral direction (not spinning). Again, any “clunking” or looseness will reveal the need for servicing.

Depending on the type of trike you own, steering mechanisms may also make use of bearings. These are normally found at the intersections of the moving components of the steering mechanism. Some “wiggle” at these bearing joints is often by design (this is true for most tadpole style trikes by TerraTrike), but excessive slop can result in an inability to turn or to straighten again (or at least to do so smoothly). If you find your steering contains some “jitter” it may be the result of failing steering bearings and will require tightening or replacement. It is best to consult with your trike’s manufacturer or your trusted mechanic if questions remain.

Inspect for wheel trueness by spinning each wheel slowly while looking along the rotational line. Of course, your brakes need to be off to do this. If any wobbling of the wheel rim is evident the wheel may require truing, or replacing. I find it easiest to perform this check by raising each wheel off the ground with a small block set under the trike frame nearest the wheel being inspected. This leaves my hands free for spoke adjustments if needed.

Inspect disc-brakes for trueness, cleanliness and integrity. There are a few things that can affect disc-brake performance and most are simple to fix. The first thing to check is disc-brake trueness of the rotor. A simple check is accomplished by spinning the wheel slowly and looking for a wobble along the brake rotor. This wobble may also be accompanied by an intermittent grinding, squealing, or abrasive sound. A true straight edge can also be used to check for any gaps between the flat rotor surface and the straight edge. When using a straight edge you must move it around and check several locations. If the wobble is very slight and has not affected your ability to stop, does not produce braking drift, and does not produce so much friction that your wheel refuses to turn, then you are probably fine and the problem can be addressed at a later time. If the wobble does produce these problems then the rotor must be trued or replaced. There seem to be two main reasons for a rotor to become warped: an accident where some object on your trail strikes and bends the rotor, or more commonly, by leaving the brake pads engaged with the rotor over time (often a mistake made when storing our trikes between rides).

Disc-brakes will fail if the rotor is dirty, particularly when contaminated with some form of oil or grease. If the brake is applied, and the brake pads are engaged with the rotor but the wheel still spins, the rotor is likely contaminated with oil. The simplest way to fix this problem is to apply some isopropyl alcohol to a clean rag and use this to wipe away all of the oils contaminating the rotor (this may take a while). It is best to keep the alcohol from contacting the brake pads as it may affect the stabilizers holding the pad components together. If cleaning with alcohol is not sufficient there are commercial de-glazers (typically a fine abrasive suspended in a water-based paste) available that do a pretty good job.

Check braking integrity by finding a safe area to ride and apply each brake individually to test its ability to bring you and your trike to a stop. If any brake fails, it may be due to a dirty rotor (as above) or the need to adjust the brake pads closer to the rotor. This type of failure is inevitable because the brake pads are continually worn away each time the brakes are applied. Eventually, brake pads will require adjustment and ultimately replacement.

Inspect tire condition. Tires can suffer from a few problems including, improper inflation, excessive tread wear, dry-rot and side-wall or bead damage. Properly inflated tires (as indicated on the tire side-wall) can help to avoid many problems including bead and side-wall damage and bent rims (proper inflation also affects friction, or roll performance). Inflation levels can only be accurately measured using an air pressure gauge. If your tire continues to slowly deflate, the first remedial action should be to check air valve for proper seating. The spring-loaded pin in tire valves can be loosened and retightened using valve tool (often as a built-in tool in some high-end valve caps). An additional check for faster leaks can be performed with a little soap-water solution applied to the valve pin. If bubbles form, the valve is failing and should be replaced if re-seating is not sufficient. If the valve is ruled out the wheel will likely require disassembly to inspect the inner tube for a puncture.

Excessive tread wear is easily determined through visual inspection. Tires with excessively worn treads will likely result in more flat tires due to punctures and can also affect traction necessary for turning safely at higher speeds or on some wet surfaces. Tires with worn treads should be replaced.

Side-wall, bead, and dry-rot is also checked through visual inspection. Worn or damaged side-walls will increase the likeliness of blow-outs and can also result in a failure leading to an accident while turning or when riding over bumpy terrain. While inspecting the side-walls, also check for the appearance of the tire bead. The bead should not be visible as it is supposed to be seated below the inner edge of the wheel rim. If the bead is visible, the tire should be reseated or replaced if reseating does not remedy the problem. Dry-rot inspection is more easily done while the tire is partially deflated allowing it to be manipulated by hand (squeezed, twisted and bent). Dry-rot is present if any cracks are revealed while manipulating the tire and is common on older tires or those that have been in excessive temperatures. A tire suffering from dry-rot is not safe and should be replaced.

Inspect frame for cracks around connections and welded joints. A bent frame is a nuisance while a cracked frame is a hazard. Older damage to welded joints or frame cracks will probably reveal themselves in the form of oxidation rising from under the paint. New cracks may be more difficult to find. The method I use most often is accomplished when I clean my trike after a ride. After washing my trike I like to use a soft terry cloth towel to dry it because it provides an opportunity for a closer inspection. While drying, larger cracks may be visible because their cleft may hold dirt and dust that did not wash off like that on smooth, painted surfaces. Smaller, or questionable cracks can be dusted and rubbed with talcum powder which will become trapped in the narrow gap of a small cracks making them easier to detect. If you find a cracked frame or failing welds your trike needs servicing before your next ride.

Inspecting crank tube extensions for fastness is done by checking for any loose nuts, bolts or other fasteners used to attach it to the main frame. Not every trike is equipped with an extender as they are normally used to provide a proper fit for taller trike riders. If any fasteners are loose, check to see if the crank tube extender has rotated out of position. If it has rotated out of position, loosen the remaining fasteners, straighten the extender, and tighten the fasteners again. Operating your trike with a crank out of alignment will severely shorten the life of your chain, sprockets and cassette.

Inspecting the rear derailleur and derailleur hanger is particularly necessary if you have trouble moving the chain up or down the cassette. While positioning yourself behind the trike, push the pulley cage forward and down, effectively lowering the bottom/lower pulley. If the cage is not perpendicular to the level ground surface it is likely the derailleur hanger is bent. A visual inspection should also reveal that the sprockets of the derailleur and the sprockets of the selected cassette gear should be aligned. In some cases when only a minor adjustment is needed, particularly when out on a trail, you may be able to grab the entire derailleur assembly with your hands, as close as possible to hanger, and gently bend the hanger in or out to achieve a close to proper alignment. This is not an accurate method but might be enough to get you back home if problems arise on a ride. Any proper repairs will require a visit to your trusted mechanic or with a proper derailleur hanger adjustment tool.

Inspect for accurate shifting while avoiding cross-chaining. Cross-chaining occurs when your chain is on the largest front chain ring and the largest rear cog. When the chain is in this position there is a great amount of lateral tension present in the chain that can result in breaking or bending cog teeth. If at any time you experience problems shifting you will likely need to visit your trusted mechanic or spend some time in situ performing a more thorough and nuanced fine-tuning of your shifting mechanisms.

Inspect quick release fasteners to be certain they are holding properly and not projecting their lever in a direction that can catch clothing or poke (maybe puncture) your body. Some quick release fasteners require very little effort to open them and can be accidentally loosened while loading or unloading your trike from a vehicle or carrier. A loosened fastener can simply be tightened again, but if the lever is presented in an incorrect or dangerous position when locked, loosen it and rotate it so that when it is clamped shut the lever is in a safe position.

Inspect seat for fastness. Many seats are fixed with either quick release fasteners or a hex-bolt tensioner. A quick check can be done while standing astride your trike by grabbing the sides of the seat frame and attempt to rock it side-to-side and forward and back. If the seat is loose, check it for proper alignment and distance from the pedals then tighten the fasteners.

Inspect all fasteners and snug them to a proper tightness. Lefty-loosy, Righty-tighty… well, most of the time. Exceptions include non-drive-side pedals and many drive-side bottom bracket cups.

Inspecting free-wheeling chain idler wheels. When inspecting, they should be exactly that… free-wheeling. A simple check only requires the chain to be lifted with one hand so that it is no longer engaged by the idler gear and with the other hand the gear should spin freely with minimal drag. I’ve found idler gears tend to bind with debris from riding on unpaved surfaces. This problem can easily be addressed by thoroughly cleaning them and the chain after a ride. Idler wheels are a wear-and-tear item that do require occasional replacement, but if you follow a thorough cleaning with an appropriate lubricant applied to the chain, the wheels shouldn’t require replacement for a few thousand miles.

Inspect for loose or dangling straps. Straps and strap-like bindings are everywhere on my trike. They are used for tensioning my seat support, on my rear rack, touring rack cargo bag, panniers, pant leg binding and shoe laces. Any of these straps, if too long, can become caught in the moving parts of your bike and have the potential to disrupt your ride or cause a mechanical failure. Inspect your straps after securing all you are carrying and any long, dangling straps should be wound up and secured (I use velcro-like wire ties) or taped or tucked safely away.

Inspect equipment attachment points used for mounting lights, flags, phones, and any other devices you carry. It is a terrible thing to watch a new smart phone fall and go skidding along the road into traffic. After all the investments we’ve made in our machines it is well worth the effort to ensure that our devices are securely attached and remain that way.

I hope that you find this article to be of some value to you. I know that when I begin my ride, after performing these inspections, I can hit the trail without much to worry about except the road ahead.

I’m looking forward to riding with you!

Wayne K

‘Tis the Season (Part 1)…

‘Tis the Season…
As the deepening of winter affords us fewer opportunities to ride, we (with finger firmly pointed at ME) should take advantage of this time to evaluate our trikes for mechanical soundness and safety. Much of this sport is new to me, along with most of the after market equipment add-ons that are available to keep us safe and comfortable. I have benefited much from listening to advice and conversations from other recumbent trike riders, including some in our Delaware Valley Trike Riders’ Club – and for this shared insight I am grateful.

In anticipation of participating in our group rides I’m making some investments in a few safety upgrades, some of which I’ve been putting off because I’ve rarely shared the road with any motor vehicles. *I know – it is a poor excuse,* and that is why I’m writing this post with the hope that, if needed, you too will be encouraged to do a safety self-evaluation and gear-up where needed.

First on the list was to purchase a new helmet – one that fits me correctly and comfortably enough that I won’t feel so tempted to remove it during my ride. I spent years wearing helmets in the Army (back then we called them steel pots because that is what they were) and thanks to Uncle Sam I had developed quite an aversion to anything remotely like them. With that in mind, I selected a helmet from Specialized Bikes, the Echelon 2, in “high-viz yellow.” This helmet was recently Consumer Reports top pick and is available at nearly half the price of the next highest rated helmet. I was very impressed by the built-in fitting mechanism and found it to be a fair bit lighter than my old helmet. After walking around the house with it on for about an hour I concluded that my selection was one I could live with, and after receiving a healthy dose of good-humored ridicule I decided to fit the rest of my family with their very own. Revenge can be a good thing!

I’ve also decided to install a couple of devices to minimize the chance of “foot suck.” Only now, being part of a recumbent trike riders’ community with the opportunity to learn from the experience of others, have I come to understand the very real risk of “foot suck” and some of the tools available to avoid it. For those who find this a new addition to their vocabulary – “foot suck” can occur when your foot slips off the pedal while moving and gets trapped between the ground and the front axle housing of a tadpole trike (or some other part of the trike frame). With enough forward momentum it can be quite dangerous and result in very sever injuries to the foot, ankle, lower leg and knee.

After much research (prompted by a luckily benign incident of “foot suck” in late August) I’ve settled on purchasing a set of Power Grips and I will pair this with some version of a “heel sling.” Power Grips are basically a set of heavy-duty straps mounted on a diagonal across the bike pedal and are designed to keep a foot in firm contact with the pedal. In addition to the “attaching” functionality, Power Grips also provide for more effective peddling by allowing some “pull” on one pedal while we “push” on the other. An additional selling point for me was the fact that Power Grips do not require the rider to wear specialized shoes as is the case with clip-less pedals which accomplish pretty much the same thing. My remaining question before purchasing this device is whether to get a pair pre-mounted to their high-end pedals or to buy the strap kit and mount them to the stock pedals of my 2-year old Terratrike Tour 2.

The “Heel Slings” have yet to be selected. By nature I am in the DIY club so I am tempted to attach some braided bungee cord to serve as a heel sling. The alternative seems to be developed by JSRLDesign using some small twisted metal cables with an add-on heel pad that is bolted to the pedals. I haven’t heard of any complaints about this device but a bungee is significantly less expensive and already padded.

I have some super-bright, pulsing, red lights attached to the rear of my trike. These are Blackburn’s Mars 3.0 Rear lights (there is a 4.0 version now that they say is even brighter). I’ve been very happy with them as they can be seen nearly a block away during daylight. For these I’ll pick up fresh batteries.

Finally, I’ll address my need for a new flag. The stock Terratrike flag that came with my trike has refused to remain connected to the whip and no amount of double sided tape seems to save me from turning back on my ride to pick up my fallen banner. In frustration I grabbed one of those silly one-piece orange triangle that most of us left behind after stripping the training wheels from our spider bikes. This is better than nothing but not very visible because the triangle flag is so stiff and small it results in almost no flutter making it useless to warn motor drivers. Since I do have the second whip I’ll opt again for a DIY solution and add some high-viz yellow and orange streamers made from PVC-surveying ribbons. If they tie themselves into a birds’ nest in the first stiff breeze then I’ll search for something else.

I’d be happy to hear about your experiences with these devices and other alternative solutions regarding trike safety and comfort. And…

I look forward to riding with you soon!
Wayne K

“‘Tis the Season (Part 2)…” will focus on addressing the mechanical integrity of my recumbent trike in preparation for our group rides.

Ride Leaders, Charitable Rides & Survey Update

One more quick update from the Delaware Valley Trike Riders’ Club:
1. About Ride Leaders:
Including myself, two other DV Trike Riders have offered to lead rides – Thank You, Mike B. and Jay S.! These rides may include NJ Pinelands, Delaware River Canal Trails, Belmar to Sandy Hook Coastal Trail, Chester Valley Trail, Thun Trail, Perkiomen Trail, NJ East Coast Greenway (Trenton to N. Brunswick, NJ), Heritage Trail (York, PA), Schuylkill River Trail and others. A group of a dozen or so trikes making way on any of these trails will be quite a sight – and I’m really looking forward to seeing it and being it!

If you are interested in leading a ride (and I hop you are) please contact me ASAP. I would like to hold a brief meeting soon so that ride leaders can come to agreement on a few matters of importance. In the meantime, Ride Leaders and others who may be interested are encouraged to take a look at an excellent document prepared for Ride Leaders in the Bicycle Club of Phila. This BCP Ride Leader Handbook is an excellent (and easy to read) source of “best practices” and provides important considerations for Ride Leaders.

I’ve posted a few Trip Sheets to the Ride Archive page. These can be used as a guideline for creating Trip Sheets for rides you will lead. There are many other examples elsewhere online. Feel free to adapt any you are comfortable with.

2. Fundraising Rides?
If anyone has knowledge of upcoming rides for charitable fundraising, please pass a link on to me and I’ll post a collection of them here. These rides can be an excellent opportunity for us to ride together, network to promote our club and to contribute locally to worthwhile causes.

3. About Survey Results:
The Survey remains open for those who haven’t provided feedback yet. We’ve had a few more respondents complete our survey. The new results don’t change the earlier results except to make them more robust. Below is an example result of where we’d like to ride:


Keep spreading the word of our club when you can.
I look forward to riding with you!
Wayne K

Trike Rider Survey & Ride Leader Shout-out

The Delaware Valley Trike Riders are putting together several group rides but we need your input. In order to design rides that will keep you happy and coming back we need to know a few things about your expectations and current riding abilities.

Please use this link to complete a brief 10 question survey. Respondents shall be kept anonymous but we will post the results so that future ride leaders can use them to guide their efforts. The 5 or so minutes you invest in this will be very helpful to us.

About half of the people who have contacted me have not “followed” this website and have only contacted me via email. In order to be sure I’ve contacted everyone (and until everyone has “followed” the site to receive updates) I will be sending email invitations also. If you receive this wordpress update notice and an email from me – I apologize for the duplication. This shouldn’t be a problem much longer.

If you would be interested in leading a ride along one of your favorite trails, please let me know (you can email me directly or use the comment feature). After ride leaders have been identified, I would like to convene a brief meeting (over breakfast or lunch, or online via google hangouts or similar service) so that we can introduce ourselves and share ideas on how best to move this club forward so that we can start riding as a group.

I hope you all can continue to enjoy this holiday weekend and I look forward to riding with you!
Wayne K

P.S. Please continue to share news of our club, The Delaware Valley Trike Riders, with other trike riders, dealers and mechanics in our area – Thank you!

Welcome to the Delaware Valley Trike Riders’ Club & Blog

Recumbent Trike Riders Wanted!

I’d like to extend an invitation to other Recumbent Trike Riders in the Delaware Valley, S.E. Pennsylvania, Central, Southern and Coastal New Jersey, and elsewhere, to join with me in forming a group that will fulfill the Trike Rider’s goals just like those groups who support DF riders. What goals are these? Here are a few of mine:
• Meet new people
• Ride new routes for fun and for challenge
• Offer group clinics for maintenance, safety, commuting, touring, etc.
• Charter portage for longer one-way trips
• Share tips, techniques and technology to enhance our rides

Our region is home to hundreds of miles of high quality trails and roadways that are ideal for recumbent trike riders and riding these with a group can only enhance the fun. There is no fee to join other than your interest and maybe a little sweat equity to help plan, organize or lead a ride along your favorite trail.

Please contact me via a “comment” to this site if you are interested in helping to form our Trike Riders group, to lead rides, to join rides or to contribute to a list of suitable routes. I hope that we can form a core group who will help to create our “Club” this winter of 2014/2015 and be ready to offer new group rides this spring (and maybe take few rides on suitable winter days too).

I’ll be adding a Club Calendar and an archive library of ride tip sheets soon. Please “Follow” this blog to receive notices of updates.